My ideal CB would permit maximum arousal and completely prevent release (as opposed to preventing arousal). Until I discovered Altairboy's website, my design thoughts were largely shaped by a Penthouse "letter" I saw which described a simple plastic tube positioned vertically on the abdomen and secured by waist and crotch chains. This seemed the obvious solution, except the inability to urinate in a sanitary fashion without standing on your head precluded long-term wear. This problem, together with the discovery of the Walter/J-tube family of belts, which permit partial arousal, caused me to abandon the notion of a full-erection CB. Recently, though, a possible design solution unexpectedly popped into my head, perhaps inspired by the clever and creative posts I've been readings from others.
If you, like me, have way too much time on your hands, you can test the basic concepts yourself with a cardboard tube from a roll of toilet paper and a spoon.
SPOON TEST: Kneel before the toilet about six inches from the front rim (depending how powerful your hose is) and aim slightly down into the bowl. Hold the spoon with your free hand, handle vertical and bowl (of the spoon) at the bottom. When you have a stream going, quickly insert the bowl into the stream head on about 12" away and then move it forward toward stream-source into design position about an inch away. When properly positioned the bowl of the spoon will intercept the stream and redirect it to the sides and then down and out the mouth of the spoon with no splashing. BE PREPARED TO MAKE RAPID SPOON ADJUSTMENTS. (Or be prepared to clean up the potential mess.)
SLOT TEST: Cut a slot approximately 3/8" wide down the length of the cardboard tube, leaving an inch or so at one end just to keep the cylinder-shape from separating. Slip the tube over your penis intact ring first, positioning the slot directly over the urethra on the front, and kneel before the toilet. Aim the tubed penis slightly downward into the toilet bowl. Near the end of evacuation, as the arc of the stream falls, or perhaps sooner depending on the present condition of your penis, the stream should begin to pass through the slot without splashing on the sides.
So let's mentally assemble the components to try to get a picture of this thing. Imagine a 1-1/2" tube about 10" in length. Cut about three-quarters of the way through the cross-section approximately 3" from one end and then down both sides such that you leave a flattish 3" tab or tang at one end of the tube. Bend this tang into a shallow J shape, starting the curve about 1/2" below the tube opening so as not to obstruct it. Now cut a 3/8" slot centered over the J-tang but starting at the opposite end of the tube and traveling to within about 1" of the J-tang. Now take a 1/2" tube equal to the length of the slot you just cut and split it lengthwise, making a semicircular cross-section. Cut a notch or hole on one edge for a sanitation hole.
Attach this half-tube to the main tube to cover the slot, making sure the sanitation hole is positioned near the top of the main tube. The result is a tube assembly similar to its proposed prisoner, the half tube at the fore resembling the real urethral passage in both position and function. Put a piece shaped like the mouth of a pitcher just below and around the base of the slot to redirect flow coming down the tube out away from the belt. Mentally weld your spoon-bowl-shaped piece to the top of the main tube such that the mouth of the spoon covers the top of the half-tube. The tube assembly can then be fitted with waist and crotch chains and/or mounted on a front belly piece, and any of the belt configurations already in use might be employed.
Theoretically, the belt would function as follows: The penis enters the tube through the opening at the bottom, and when the belt is secured in place, the J-tang, which follows the contour of the subcutaneous penis back under the pubic bone, prevents the penis from retracting and escaping out the bottom. Except when extremely retracted (to a length less than the 1-1/2" diameter of the tube), the penis is carried in a vertical position and when flaccid tends to fall/slump to a position centered over the vertical slot.
In order to urinate, one would sit on the toilet seat with elbows on knees or hugging knees and bend forward at the waist to effect a 45-degree-or-better tilt to the main tube. The flow should hit the top and flow down (thanks to the tilt) and out the the spoon's mouth or directly out the slot, then down the half-tube and out the pitcher mouth into the toilet. The half tube is then flushed with fresh water using a water bottle (similar to the ones athletes use) to prevent odor caused by residual urine remaining in the tube. Water is squirted into the small sanitary hole at the top of the half-tube using the needle-like nozzle on the bottle.
A real prototype might be constructed out of metal or PVC pipe, either welding or gluing the parts together, respectively. The PVC would require some type of banding (small pipe hanger?) to supplement the glued butt joint securing the half-tube to the main tube. The bottom spout could be molded from putty in either case, security not being a factor there. Actual spoons, sans handles, might be used at the top, perhaps as inserts under pipe caps, if not actually welded/glued to form the top itself. The spoon will need to be mounted off center both to accommodate the likely direction of the stream and so the mouth of the spoon overlaps the half-tube and directs flow into it.
The PVC would also require an additional piece to form the J-bend, perhaps cut from an elbow fitting. Mounting the tube assembly to a front belly plate might help avoid the inevitable pokes in the abdomen when bending over, at the loss of the breezier pipe-only version. To cure the perpetual happy-to-see-you look that a pipe in the pants gives, a belly-shaped foam pad with void to accommodate the tube assembly would yield a more natural, unobtrusive look. ("Puttin' on a little weight, Bill?) The metal version would probably benefit from some type of coating to avoid rust, but avoid toxic materals (some paints) or too-thick applications (tool dip if you dip it) that may clog the half-tube.
It might be wise to make a simple, unsecured test model composed of just the two-tube assembly or perhaps a removable spoon cap to test the slot design principle "in the field" and verify that the meatus will maintain its slot orientation without assistance during the ups and downs of the day.
As for security, one might achieve some stimulation by poking a wire or somesuch through the sanitary hole and slot, although I suspect irritation is the best one could hope for. Still, if this were a problem, the sanitary hole could be eliminated in favor of backflushing the tube from the pitcher mouth. This, though, would increase splash-through into the slot, and without the sanitary hole to act as chimney, some ventilation would be lost.
If one could develop enough play in the belt, one could piston the tube up and down and use it to masturbate quite effectively. This is probably the greatest threat to security, and close attention must be paid to the design of the belt/strap/chain system to achieve a solid positioning of the tube assembly and prevent this. One may receive some stimulation as erection occurs and the penis rubs against the walls of the tube on its way to filling it. This should be quite minimal, and, partner, if you can orgasm from that, you're way overdue!
I've made a trip to the local home builder's store today, and I'm a bit less enthusiastic than I was writing my first draft. I found a longish J-tube just the right starting shape (in fact, the one made to adjoin the sink trap J-tube), but it's 1-1/4", which is just too small inside. Worse, I just can't think of a secure way to attach the half-tube to the main tube, and without it there's just too much access.
I now think the fabrication approach is inherently inferior for this design (although I'd be delighted to be proven wrong). Also, while experimenting with positioning of the tube, I could see the bulk problem is more significant than I suspected.
My best thought at this point is some kind of a lost-model casting procedure, a set of component pieces made out of cardboard or plastic or fabricated from materials as above, then "locked" into position with an overall casting in some sturdy material like plastic or fiberglass. The internal pieces would then either be dismantled and removed (cardboard) or serve as permanent functional inserts. One might also at least partially solve the bulk problem with this method by forming a tapered top to the main tube and gently curving the main tube to better follow the contours of the lower abdomen.
MORE MISCELLANEOUS NOTIONS:
I did forget to mention the slot edges should be beveled or rounded on the inside for comfort. The sanitary hole could be further protected with screening like in a sink faucet. I've seen domed screens made to fit into hoses; they would be sturdier than flat screens. A jig to hold the J-tube for cutting the slot can be made by drilling a hole to accommodate the leg of the J in a board or piece of plywood, then locking it into place with 2x2 blocks nailed along either side. A circular saw can then ride over the blocks and cut the slot, starting at the bottom of the J going into the curve and stopping at the top so as to leave a structural ring. Might be able to angle the cuts to get a bevel effect, too, if it's not too tight.
STILL MORE THOUGHTS:
I think the half-tube-on-the-outside design is poor for PVC. It's difficult to secure (bolted clamps, if you can find them to fit) and still subject to intentional breakage with a good twist. A better approach is to place the main tube inside a slightly larger tube, bolting/riveting the tubes together at the back and to the belly plate if you're using one. The enclosing tube then functions as the half-tube would, draining urine and preventing tampering through the slot on the main tube. The plastic spoon need only overlap the top of the main tube, and the enclosing tube could extend above spoon and main and be closed with a pipe cap.
The big problem remains, though. The only way to minimize detectability with this design (vertical pipe) is by curving the pipe slightly (metal, maybe, but not PVC) to follow belly lines and tapering the pipe to closure at the top to eliminate the telltale sharp-angled bulge at beltline. This still wouldn't be my first choice for a homebuilt CB.
Still, having put this much thought into the thing, I may go ahead and at least test the general concept. I'm thinking I could maybe track down some clear vinyl tubing and make a simple prototype double-tube as described bove and thereby observe the process in action. (It's a good thing I don't have a roommate!)
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Page last updated 97-Dec-17 by: Altairboy@aol.com