Homemade Steel Chastity Belt

Described by: Bondisan

I realized, very soon after seeing Altairboy's pages for the first time in November, 1996 that I had to have a metal chastity belt. Since talking my partner into spending upwards of $400 for a professionally fabricated belt was out of the question, I decided to experiment with fabricating one for myself. After thinking on the problem for a while, I decided that a simple design such as the Tollyboy would be easiest to duplicate.

side view rear view front view

I didn't want to break the bank purchasing materials so I went to Lowes (or Home Depot, etc.) and purchased a sheet of galvanized steel roofing material ($8), a 10 foot length of 1 1/2" PVC tubing (they were out of the 5 foot length ($2.50)), several "quick links" of the appropriate size (I honestly don't remember but the size necessary was obvious -- $1.25 -- several short 1/4" standard nylon bolts, and a nice new brass padlock ($5). While at Lowes I perused the adhesives section and came across an adhesive called "Goop" which claimed to adhere most anything to most anything else, stay flexible, and it is water proof. There are several varieties to choose from, however, I have concluded they are all the same so buy the cheapest variety (less than $5).

From Lowes, I walked across the parking lot to Tandy leather and purchased a pack of 1" chrome D-rings ($3) and a pack of 100 medium length rivets ($2 -- $8 if you need the tool). Another trip across the parking lot to the pet store to purchase the biggest choke collar available which happens to be flat, chrome plated chain ($5). Next stop was a discount department store (K-mart, or Wal-mart, etc.) to get a wrap around, neoprene, "loose weight by sweating it off" excersize belt ($8).

On the way home I stopped at a True Value (or some other small hardware store) to get several sets of hasps, like you would use to lock a shed door ($2.50 each). I chose to buy those from True Value because small hardware stores actually sell higher quality hasps with solid rings instead of the doubled sheet steel variety available at Lowes. All the prices may be off by 30%.

I started by cutting a 1.25" strip of steel approximately 8" larger than I thought my waist was. Next I filed the edges and one end smooth. I then cut a strip of the excersize belt 2.25" wide and the length of the excersize belt. I riveted the locking ring part of a hasp (got rid of the hinged part) to the filed end of the steel strip. Now the neoprene belt was adhered to the steel strip with the Goop, completely covering and wrapping around the steel strip. I then wrapped the strip around my waist and marked where I thought it should fit.

I used a Dremel tool to cut out a rectangular hole which fit over the hasp. After making sure that the size was correct (and cutting several more notches in the steel for adjustments and cutting off the excess) I measured half the length of the strip and added 1/6th of the length on either side of the mid-point. This gave two points at which I could attach two of the D-rings (with a small strip of steel and rivets) which would serve to attach the rear chains to the waist belt. Voila, waist belt.

The front shield construction was more complex and is as follows: First a D-ring is cut and prised apart. Two lengths of chain that were about 4" longer than I anticipated needing were cut from the dog collar/leash combo and the last link on one end of each was slipped over the D-ring which was then pressed back together using a bench vise. I fabricated a pattern from aluminum flashing by studying the images on the web pages and making some guesses. As time has passed I have refined the front shield pattern to improve comfort and security.

The pattern was transferred to the steel sheet and a front shield was cut out. I intentionally made it way too long and trimmed the excess after getting the chain length adjusted. One successful version of the front shield is seen in the photos where the front shield starts narrow and flares out at the base of the cock tube. The D-ring and chain assemblies were secured to the end of the front shield by looping a thin strip of steel left protruding from the bottom of the front shield over itself and riveting the loop shut.

Next the cock tube was fabricated and attached to the front shield. The cock tube was made by shaping a length of PVC tubing first with a coping saw and then with the Dremel tool and then finally with sandpaper. It took a long time to get the cock tube shaped right so it doesn't pinch, is comfortable, and secure. A 1/4 - 20 tap was used to tap the cock tube and the nylon bolts (and some 5-minute epoxy after I got the adjustments right) were used to permanently secure the tube to the shield.

The critical measurement is made now: The waist belt is put on and the chains are "quick linked" to the D-rings in the back of the waist belt. After slipping the cock tube on (but not fastened to the front shield yet) you have to sit or squat and hold the front shield up tight to the waist belt in the front to adjust the length of the chains. The chain adjustment is done by changing the links in the chain that are slipped over the quick links. This must be done before the final length of the front shield is determined or defecation will be messy indeed.

After the chain adjustment is complete a rectangular slot is cut in the steel such that this hole will fit over the hasp in the waist belt. The front shield is cut off at the top even with the top of the waist belt. After making these adjustments the front shield was lined with the neoprene excersize belt and the nylon bolts adhered to the PVC tube. Finally the quick links are permanently shut with loc-tite.

After much experimentation, and half a dozen or so front shields and three waist belts I think I am beginning to grasp chastity belt construction. The most difficult part was certainly understanding the relationship between the cock tube and front shield. If you are experimenting with this design on your own it is important to begin by fabricating a belt and then measure the front shield/chains assembly from the rear since this measurement is the easiest to do by yourself.

It is much easier to cut new holes in the front shield to make adjustments until you get it right and then use this version of the front shield as a pattern for the real one. The first front shield I made was fabricated from aluminum flashing which can be cut with scissors. The front shield and cock tube dimensions both affect each other and the relationship between them took time to get right. If the front shield is too wide it will cause chafing and limit motion but be more secure.

If the cock tube is too long will be hard to make the transition from standing to sitting, if you can sit. If the cock tube is too short security is easily breached. If the front shield is too short it just wont fit or hurts. Basically I found that the front shield is best if the metal is conformed to the top of the tube (i.e. the metal should not be wider than the tube) until it gets almost to the top of the tube where it should flare out to prevent access. The photos do not reflect this latest version of the front shield.

This design is fairly cheap (less than $50 for all the materials and I have fabricated multiple complete belts), suitable for long term wear (I have worn it for 4 days continuously with no real trouble except for the usual hygiene difficulties), and tamper proof but not absolutely secure. To enhance security, a composite belt could be made with the same general design and a hasp guard added. Not too long after I finished the first successful belt I notice my SO looking at padlocks with hasp guards but they were too big to be suitable. Other potential future enhancements include pins for better locating the front shield.


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Page last updated 97-Aug-27 by: Altairboy@aol.com